Arquivo da Categoria: Bijutaria

– Doces em FimoDoces em Fimo

Cake earringsDesde miúda que gosto de casas de bonecas com todos aqueles fantásticos pormenores em miniatura. A comida, e especialmente os doces, sempre foram das minhas miniaturas favoritas e como tal sempre quis experimentar fazer algumas.

Depois de passar uns dias a brincar com a plasticina do Tiago resolvi finalmente agarrar no caderno onde tenho vindo a acumular esboços de ideias e comecei a moldar algumas peças em Fimo. Já tinha todos os materiais necessários e ferramentas mas pouco tinha experimentado até aqui a não ser para fazer algumas contas e anéis relativamente simples. Este tipo de miniaturas realistas dão muito mais trabalho mas também são um gozo de fazer.

O resultado está no Flickr e algumas peças também já estão na loja.

Agora ando ocupada com outros projectos mas assim que puder ainda tenho mais umas ideias para acrescentar à  lista.Cake earringsDesde miúda que gosto de casas de bonecas com todos aqueles fantásticos pormenores em miniatura. A comida, e especialmente os doces, sempre foram das minhas miniaturas favoritas e como tal sempre quis experimentar fazer algumas.

Depois de passar uns dias a brincar com a plasticina do Tiago resolvi finalmente agarrar no caderno onde tenho vindo a acumular esboços de ideias e comecei a moldar algumas peças em Fimo. Já tinha todos os materiais necessários e ferramentas mas pouco tinha experimentado até aqui a não ser para fazer algumas contas e anéis relativamente simples. Este tipo de miniaturas realistas dão muito mais trabalho mas também são um gozo de fazer.

O resultado está no Flickr e algumas peças também já estão na loja.

Agora ando ocupada com outros projectos mas assim que puder ainda tenho mais umas ideias para acrescentar à  lista.

– Food miniature earrings

– Ever since I was a little girl I’ve loved doll houses. And the part that fascinated me the most was the miniature food. A few years ago I finally bought a proper doll house kit that I built and decorated. Some of the first things I bought were a miniature pie, bread and a plate of cakes.

When I was in college I tried to make some miniature food but I didn’t have the patience or skill to do it properly. Over the years I’ve seen some amazing work in polymer clay and have learned a few things myself so I decided to give it another try. I had some projects in my sketch book for some time so I opened it up and started sculpting.

This time I had the full range of colours and all the necessary tools, down to the pasta maker, so it went a lot more smoothly and the end result was so satisfying that I kept making more pieces.

Instead of dollhouse pieces I turned these items into earrings because that way it becomes something you can actually wear instead of something you just look at once in a while.

I still have quite a few sketches left so this is only the beginning.

– Hooked on chain maille

– I’ve loved chain maille for a long time but it wasn’t till recently that I really set out to learn how to make it.

I love the way metal can feel as soft and flexible as fabric and how you can make such elaborate designs using nothing but little jump rings.

The very first time I tried to make byzantine chain I didn’t realize you needed a specific ring diameter for a specific wire gauge, so that attempt didn’t turn out so great. The rings were too big and so they wouldn’t stay in place when you bent them backwards. This time I had a bit more time to read up on the subject before actually making anything and it all turned out much better.

I used a jeweller’s saw to make the jump rings and started with silver plated wire in case something didn’t go according to plan because I didn’t want to ruin all my lovely sterling silver wire.

After the first bracelet was complete I made a couple more and some earrings in byzantine chain and then started on European 4-1. I was convinced this pattern would be easy but I was wrong. It’s not that it’s a hard patter to understand but if you’re not paying enough attention it’s easy to place a ring the wrong way and that happened A LOT at first because the whole thing moves in your hands and if you don’t know the pattern well yet, it’s hard to keep track which way the rings are turned at first. Sometimes you really do have to try something before judging its complexity cause you never know.

In the end, the more I do chain maille, the more I enjoy it. Making the jump rings is a bit boring but it’s worth the effort because you create a piece that is entirely handcrafted and you can always make rings the size you need and they never run out. I can’t wait to try new patterns and variations and include beads in the pieces I make, for a splash of color.

– Novo vicioNovo vicio

Byzantine chain bracelet Há já algum tempo que andava com vontade de experimentar fazer peças em cota de malha. É uma técnica que adoro desde que era miúda mas que ainda não tinha tido oportunidade de aprender.

Quando era pequena, uma colega da escola tinha um porta moedas em cota de malha e eu adorava brincar com aquilo. O facto de ser feito de um material rigido mas formar uma malha tão macia e flexà­vel tornava aquele objecto fascinante. É que ver a malha em fotos de armaduras não é o mesmo que tocar. A malha mais comum, que é o 4-1 Europeu é visualmente pouco interessante mas quando se mexe nota-se que é tão maleável como tecido.

Mais recentemente, e porque antes de experimentar só temos como referencia aquilo que vemos, fiquei muito interessada na corrente bizantina porque tem um padrão muito bonito. A primeira vez que tentei fazer a corrente não correu muito bem e acabei por desistir. Pensei que era uma coisa demasiado complicada e teria de tentar outra vez numa altura em que tivesse mais tempo para estudar o assunto.

Há cerca de um mês, quando comecei a pensar no que poderia fazer diferente para a colecção de primavera, voltei a lembrar-me da cota de malha. Desta vez estudei a coisa em pormenor e apercebi-me que o problema que tive se devia, não à  dificuldade do padrão, mas ao facto da largura da argola precisar de ter um determinado tamanho relativamente à  grossura do tamanho: demasiado pequena e não conseguimos enfiar as argolas seguintes, demasiado grande e as argolas não ficam fixas na posição certa.

Comecei então a fazer espirais com o diametro certo para cortar as centenas de argolas que são necessárias para fazer uma peça destas (milhares se for para um colar). Cortei as espirais com uma serra de joalheiro, ficando assim com umas argolas que fecham perfeitamente sem ser necessário limar as arestas, algo que seria imprescindivel se as tivesse cortado com alicate.

Depois de fazer o primeiro módulo deixa de ser necessário seguir instruções porque é de facto um padrão mais simples do que parece. A maior dificuldade é manter as argolas abertas na posição correcta para introduzir a argola seguinte, em determinados ponto chave do padrão, mas não é nada de especial e se for preciso podemos introduzir uma agulha ou clip para marcar o sí­tio.

Comecei com arame folheado a prata para experimentar, porque não quis arriscar-me a estragar o arame de prata, no caso da coisa não correr bem. Agora já passei a fazer as peças todas em prata, que é muito melhor porque não se fica a ver a cor do cobre nos cortes, dando um resultado final mais perfeito em termos de brilho do metal. É claro que isto é um pormenor que só se ve quase à  lupa, mas se não somos perfeccionistas não somos nada.

O problema é que uma pulseira levar metros e metros de arame e fica bastante caro faze-la em prata, mas acho que compensa pelo resultado.

Depois de fazer algumas pulseiras e uns brincos de corrente bizantina, resolvi então fazer uma peça em 4-1 europeu. Estava convencida que era super fácil mas estava bastante enganada. Não é que seja dificil mas é preciso ter imensa atenção à  posição das argolas porque é muito fácil cometer erros. É que nas instruções as argolas estão todas direitinhas e parece simples, mas quando estamos a fazer a malha aquilo mexe tudo e as argolas não ficam na posição desejada. É preciso de vez em quando esticar a peça na mesa para ter a certeza que não está nenhuma argola ao contrário, algo que pode acontecer principalmente quando temos de virar a malha de lado ou de pernas para o ar, para facilitar a entrada das argolas. Como tenho trabalhado principalmente à  noite, quando já estou bastante cansada, tive de refazer algumas partes até ter tudo a bater certo. Mas assim que se compreende a lógica torna-se muito mais simples de continuar sem grandes problemas. Mas acaba por ser mais dificil cometer erros nesta malha aparentemente mais simples do que na corrente bizantina.

Agora as possibilidades são inumeras e o tipo de padrões também. Há tantas variações que a dificuldade é escolher. Até agora tenho escolhido os padrões de acordo com o material que tenho disponà­vel (grossura de arame e diametro das agulhas de tricot que uso para fazer as argolas) mas um dia destes faço mais uma encomendazita de arame de prata e depois é que vai ser 🙂

Escusado será dizer que uma peça destas pode demorar horas ou mesmo dias a acabar e é um trabalho muito repetitivo que requer bastante concentração.  Mas tirando a parte de fazer as argolas, que é um bocado seca e deixa-me o braço dorido, dá imenso gozo fazer estas correntes e malhas e ver o trabalho avançar.

bizantina_aventurinaHá já algum tempo que andava com vontade de experimentar fazer peças em cota de malha. É uma técnica que adoro desde que era miúda mas que ainda não tinha tido oportunidade de aprender.

Quando era pequena, uma colega da escola tinha um porta moedas em cota de malha e eu adorava brincar com aquilo. O facto de ser feito de um material rigido mas formar uma malha tão macia e flexà­vel tornava aquele objecto fascinante. É que ver a malha em fotos de armaduras não é o mesmo que tocar. A malha mais comum, que é o 4-1 Europeu é visualmente pouco interessante mas quando se mexe nota-se que é tão maleável como tecido.

Mais recentemente, e porque antes de experimentar só temos como referencia aquilo que vemos, fiquei muito interessada na corrente bizantina porque tem um padrão muito bonito. A primeira vez que tentei fazer a corrente não correu muito bem e acabei por desistir. Pensei que era uma coisa demasiado complicada e teria de tentar outra vez numa altura em que tivesse mais tempo para estudar o assunto.

Há cerca de um mês, quando comecei a pensar no que poderia fazer diferente para a colecção de primavera, voltei a lembrar-me da cota de malha. Desta vez estudei a coisa em pormenor e apercebi-me que o problema que tive se devia, não à  dificuldade do padrão, mas ao facto da largura da argola precisar de ter um determinado tamanho relativamente à  grossura do tamanho: demasiado pequena e não conseguimos enfiar as argolas seguintes, demasiado grande e as argolas não ficam fixas na posição certa.

Comecei então a fazer espirais com o diametro certo para cortar as centenas de argolas que são necessárias para fazer uma peça destas (milhares se for para um colar). Cortei as espirais com uma serra de joalheiro, ficando assim com umas argolas que fecham perfeitamente sem ser necessário limar as arestas, algo que seria imprescindivel se as tivesse cortado com alicate.

Depois de fazer o primeiro módulo deixa de ser necessário seguir instruções porque é de facto um padrão mais simples do que parece. A maior dificuldade é manter as argolas abertas na posição correcta para introduzir a argola seguinte, em determinados ponto chave do padrão, mas não é nada de especial e se for preciso podemos introduzir uma agulha ou clip para marcar o sí­tio.

Comecei com arame folheado a prata para experimentar, porque não quis arriscar-me a estragar o arame de prata, no caso da coisa não correr bem. Agora já passei a fazer as peças todas em prata, que é muito melhor porque não se fica a ver a cor do cobre nos cortes, dando um resultado final mais perfeito em termos de brilho do metal. É claro que isto é um pormenor que só se ve quase à  lupa, mas se não somos perfeccionistas não somos nada.

O problema é que uma pulseira levar metros e metros de arame e fica bastante caro faze-la em prata, mas acho que compensa pelo resultado.

Depois de fazer algumas pulseiras e uns brincos de corrente bizantina, resolvi então fazer uma peça em 4-1 europeu. Estava convencida que era super fácil mas estava bastante enganada. Não é que seja dificil mas é preciso ter imensa atenção à  posição das argolas porque é muito fácil cometer erros. É que nas instruções as argolas estão todas direitinhas e parece simples, mas quando estamos a fazer a malha aquilo mexe tudo e as argolas não ficam na posição desejada. É preciso de vez em quando esticar a peça na mesa para ter a certeza que não está nenhuma argola ao contrário, algo que pode acontecer principalmente quando temos de virar a malha de lado ou de pernas para o ar, para facilitar a entrada das argolas. Como tenho trabalhado principalmente à  noite, quando já estou bastante cansada, tive de refazer algumas partes até ter tudo a bater certo. Mas assim que se compreende a lógica torna-se muito mais simples de continuar sem grandes problemas. Mas acaba por ser mais dificil cometer erros nesta malha aparentemente mais simples do que na corrente bizantina.

Agora as possibilidades são inumeras e o tipo de padrões também. Há tantas variações que a dificuldade é escolher. Até agora tenho escolhido os padrões de acordo com o material que tenho disponà­vel (grossura de arame e diametro das agulhas de tricot que uso para fazer as argolas) mas um dia destes faço mais uma encomendazita de arame de prata e depois é que vai ser 🙂

Escusado será dizer que uma peça destas pode demorar horas ou mesmo dias a acabar e é um trabalho muito repetitivo que requer bastante concentração.  Mas tirando a parte de fazer as argolas, que é um bocado seca e deixa-me o braço dorido, dá imenso gozo fazer estas correntes e malhas e ver o trabalho avançar.

– Beach glass necklace and bracelet

– A friend asked me to make a couple of pieces out of some glass she found at the beach. It’s broken glass from some bottles that has been smoothed by the action of the sea and the sand – a natural tumbler: it may take a bit longer but gets the work done.

Since these bits of glass were irregular in size and shape and some were very small I wouldn’t risk drilling them, so the obvious choice was to make a wire net with a thicker wire at the back to link them together.

It took quite a few days to get these pieces done but I love the technique and feel the outcome is worth the work. I didn’t bother making the nets too even because the irregularity of it matches the random shape of the glass making it a much more organic piece.

Beach glass braceletFor the bracelet I simply added a lobster claw clasp to the last link. For the necklace I added a chain that has big enough links to make the length adjustable so that it can be worn longer or shorter, as a choker.

I actually liked these pieces so much I feel like making one for myself if I ever get the time and materials.

– Branch necklace

– After making the branch earrings it was only a matter of time until I could make a matching necklace. It took a bit longer and my fingers were very sore from coiling all that wire but I’m proud of the result. It looks different from anything I’ve seen and it’s pretty and elegant (I’m not being very modest, I know).

The necklace is fairly flexible so it can be adjusted to any neck size or shape and it’s not particularly heavy.

– The life of a blue necklace

– When I first started making jewelry for my online store I made several very simple necklaces because I like simplicity and because I needed more than a couple of items to start the store.

Some of those first necklaces never sold because they were not very original and so I’ve started recycling the beads to make something a bit more interesting.

One of these necklaces started out as a simple floating necklace with blue rectangular beads.

I love the color and rectangular shape of the beads and tried to use this shape as the base for the reincarnation of the necklace: I made rectangular links that work as spacers between each bead and mad wire frames for each glass bead to bring it all together.

When it was done I felt there was still something missing so I wrapped each of the frames in thin wire, adding shine, detail and texture to the neckcklace. I also used the thin wire to hold the glass beads in place, preventing them from spinning inside the frame. This supporting wire was supposed to pass through the back of the bead but I liked the result and made it the front instead, although it can be worn either way.

– Branch earrings

– I’ve been really busy making new stuff to take to the stores that carry my jewellery and while making a truckload of my coil rings, and getting a bit tired of doing the same thing, I had an idea of how to make matching earrings and was very pleased with the result. The coiling technique is the same, except I have to make caps for the beads in the end, and I use drops instead of round or square beads for this.

The design looks a bit like a tree branch, with smaller branches coming out of it.

I used only three drops but it can be made longer. The fact that the drops are clear makes the earrings seem lighter but I’m going to try the design with different colors to see if I like the result.

Coloured wire would also be a fun alternative to use for this design.

– Mosaic pendant

– I’ve been meaning to make a mosaic pendant for some time. It’s a great piece for using left-over beads but at the same time it requires a careful selection so that the color and size of all the beads works together. It also needs one or two larger beads that work as focal points because otherwise the finished piece looks bland.

For this mosaic pendant I used blue and purple beads with a few silver plated round beads and bali metal beads in between to add sparkle and detail. The small round beads are great to fill up gaps where larger beads don’t fit.

For the focals I used a large faceted blue bead and a shell/coil-shaped bead in a lighter blue. Together with the large oval purple bead, they form a triangular path for the eye. to travel through.

The frame is almost round but I tried to give it a bit of a lopsided look because I didn’t want the piece to look two neat. The whole point of a mosaic is that it’s supposed to be more organic looking than symmetrical.

The frame is wrapped in the same thin wire that holds the beads in place. This allows for the bail to be made from the two ends of the frame wire wrapped together, making it thicker and stronger than a single wire. It also looks cleaner than wrapping the bail with a thicker wire, in a more traditional wire wrapping sense.

The coils at the ends of the frame wire also link visually with the coil glass bead. I find these little details important even if you don’t really notice them at first.

The end result is perhaps a bit more chaotic than I would have liked and this kind of pendant works better with natural stone beads than glass beads but it was an interesting project.

– creativity, copyright, inspiration and design theft

– I have a college degree in communication design which basically means I’ve studied and have had an interest in the visual arts for most of my life. And for as long as I can remember, whenever the students were supposed to do any creative work, there was always someone talking about how wrong it was to copy and how much better it was to be creative and original. Now, I don’t think anyone will disagree with that statement except for one small detail: in order to have the technique and experience required to create your own work you first need to study and indeed copy other people’s work as part of the learning process. If that wasn’t true, tutorials wouldn’t be such a large business.

Where I draw the line (and everyone else should too) is when someone then decides to sell this copy. It’s one thing to copy as a learning tool but to profit from someone else’s work, design, whatever, without permission is obviously wrong.

Now that that little disclaimer is out of the way, let me carry on with the point.

So the point is that we are all inspired and influenced by what we see. To believe you can live in a vacuum and that everything you do is going to be completely original is just fooling yourself.

I believe that copying – and this can be done by following instructions, such as tutorials or lessons, or by trying to figure out a technique by replicating something you like – is part of the learning process. But unfortunately, not a lot of people will tell you this, preferring instead to make you believe that creativity is something that you either have or you don’t have, even tell you that it can’t be taught.

Personally I think that’s bullshit. You can learn almost anything you decide to learn if you take the time to practice and have the necessary drive to succeed. A large part of any art form is technique and most of the techniques used in jewellery making have been around for centuries.

And sure, some people have the ‘inspiration’ to take that technique and make something wonderful and some people simply become skilled at the technical side but not artists in the true sense of the word. Still, when you look at it like that, not everyone can become a top surgeon, lawyer or plumber either, no matter how much you study. It doesn’t mean they can’t learn the basics though.

People have certain areas of vocation or preference that lead them down their path, but when it comes to art a lot of people stop before they even try because there’s so much mysticism about artistic ability. There’s talk of ‘muses’ and ‘divine inspiration’ which, in my opinion, takes a lot away from all the hard work the artists actually go through.

Sure, when you come up with a certain design, song, whatever, it’s hard to explain how it came to you. It can be something you dreamt, it can come to you in a flash when you look at something or it can be something you were working on for ages but only comes together when you finally figure out the missing piece. And so, because we don’t really know how our brain works, the words used to describe the process always fail to do it properly and end up sounding religious or new-agey.

But I digress. What I meant to talk about is the controversy regarding copies of other people’s work. I started off by stating that in order to learn a certain craft or artistic technique you shouldn’t be afraid to copy. Usually there is someone whose work you admire and you try and see if you can draw, paint, sculpt, play, write, whatever, just like them.

But some people, in all artistic fields, go so far as to state that if you make any derivative work – work based or inspired by someone else – you shouldn’t even show it to anyone. Really? Not even show it? Just hide it in a drawer like it’s your own personal shame? Come on! The design may not be yours but you made it, with your hands and your technical skill and it’s natural to be proud of it and want to show it off. Are you also going to tell your 6 year old son he can’t draw superman because it’s copyrighted? Somehow I doubt that very much.

In fact, drawing is a good example of of what I’m saying. Some of the best illustrators working today were kids who started off trying to copy their favorite comics and learned to draw in the process. They have also, in time, developed their own styles, sometimes precisely because there were certain things they could not copy exactly or could never quite figure out how to do, and they had to come up with a solution that worked for them.

This is where creativity finally comes into play. It’s a long process and it needs dedication and persistence to pay off. But until you go through the learning process for a long time only very few people manage to develop their own style and create something fairly original. I’m not saying it can’t be done but it’s more the exception than the rule.

To try and make something completely original the first time around generally results in disappointing work and is one of the frustrations that lead many people to give up before they had time to develop their craft properly.

If you don’t believe me, brush up on your art history. Historically speaking, artists would start as apprentices to a master who would teach them to draw or paint, like he did. The apprentices would copy the master’s style sometimes to a point where it would be difficult to tell exactly who had done the work.

Later we have artistic movements where the style of each artist is different but they have common elements and the artists influence each other (think cubism, impressionism, etc).

Today it’s very difficult to come up with something new. Every time some artistic ‘innovation’ is talked about, if you look at it from a critical point of view you are forced to admit that it consists on taking elements from the past and mixing them up in a different way. It’s how you mix them that’s creative and new.

When you talk about a field like jewellery, in which certain ergonomic rules apply and give you limited parameters in which to conduct your work if it’s to remain wearable, this question of originality becomes very difficult indeed, unless you’re an established artist. Unless someone uses the exact same design of an elaborate piece, it’s probably very difficult to claim ownership of the design. I guess it just comes down to who can prove they did it first, but even two people who’ve never seen each other’s work can come up with very similar designs, especially if they are simple ones.

Once in a while someone may come along and steal designs to make a quick profit and have no interest in artistic integrity. This is wrong and I don’t condone it. No one should. Even if your work is merely inspired by someone else’s you should mention your influences and your teachers. Visual and musical artists do this, so why should jewellery be exempt?

But in certain areas, like wire wrapping, I see people butting heads all the time and refusing to teach technique because that would give someone the tools to copy a design or because they make a living selling tutorials so anyone teaching something for free is a threat. It feels like calling everyone a criminal before they even had the chance to think about whether or not they would ever commit a crime and people get caught up in petty, demeaning arguments.

There’s certainly lots of forgeries about in today’s markets, from fake designer clothes and bags to bootleg CDs and DVDs. There’s also people drawing Snoopy, Hello Kitty, etc, which are recognisable and copyrighted characters without permission and that is a clear copy and copyright violation – actually I was recently asked to make polymer clay pins shaped as the heads of Noddy or Bob the Builder and refused because it would be copyright infringement, but I’m not sure the person who asked for the pins even thought about that.

I recently found a curious case. Because I have a small child, I became reacquainted with certain cartoon characters like Musti the cat and then Miffy the bunny. I couldn’t help but notice how similar the two characters were, to the point where I thought they must surely be drawn by the same person. They’re not. Not only that but after doing a quick search on the internet I could find hardly any mention linking the two and none noticing the similarities between them. If such a thing is possible and not even questioned, then how is anyone able to claim a certainty that someone else’s work is based on their own unless they have several items that look exactly like yours?

The bottom line is that people are afraid that someone will come along, steal their designs and make a lot of money selling them while the original designer gets nothing. They probably don’t mind if they inspire someone else, but everyone needs to make a living, and unfortunately you always have to watch your back and try to get ahead of the competition, especially those who prefer to copy exactly what is already done rather than have to think about how to make a certain technique or piece their own.

This fear reduces the will to share experience and knowledge that would benefit people who have a sincere wish to learn and to develop their own skills and creativity.

I have learned from books, tutorials and teachers and I acknowledge them whenever I can. I won’t, however, lose sleep over whether or not a certain piece I make reminds me of this or that artist because my goal is to create my style, not be stuck making the same as other people. I try out things to see what I like, discard what I don’t, pair what I learned with something else I come up with and build my knowledge in technique and design with each piece, always striving to do better. So should everyone.

Just take it one step at a time, don’t try to take credit for something you know you didn’t create, give credit to your teachers but feel free to explore without fear because that’s where the spark of creativity comes from.